Monday, July 26, 2010

Leinster House

On July 8, I found myself standing outside Leinster House which is where the Irish parliament is located. While I was standing there I found myself watching a few protests going on, one involved the civil union bill that was being voted on in the Seanad, and the other involved the greyhound breeding bill that was being voted on in the Dail. In case you didn't know the Seanad is the Irish version of a senate and the Dail is like the house of representatives. After a few minutes of watching some protesters former Lord Mayor of Dublin Ben Briscoe (brother to a UD professor) gave us a personal tour of Leinster House.

Leinster House was originally built for the Duke of Leinster in 1745 as his town house. It has since become the house for the two branches of Irish parliament. One interesting thing to note is that the two houses have to approve a bill that is identical before it passes to become a law. Ireland also does have a president but they are really just a figure head and can't do anything without the Dail's approval. They can't even travel to another country without approval. The president is voted for by the people and the past two presidents have been female. The president has a 7 year term, but can be replaced early if necessary. The Lord Mayor has a bit more power since he acts as the speaker of the house, but he only has a year term.

It was fascinating to see how the Irish government actually works and how different it is from American politics. Within the house there seems to be a lot more arbitrary bickering that doesn't have much meaning than I have ever heard of in the US house or senate. It was truly fun to watch the process of them voting on a bill too! Ben Briscoe also told us many stories about the 5 presidents he has had the pleasure of meeting throughout his life, which was so crazy to think about. Then on the way out of Leinster house we somehow managed to find a senator that talked to us for a good 5 or so minutes even though he was in a hurry to leave. He was sooo nice, and now I have met an Irish senator!

Here is a picture of the front of Leinster House.

Newgrange and Boyne Valley

This picture was taken from the front of Newgrange and shows the amazing view of the Boyne valley.

Way back on July 7 I went on a field trip with the whole group to Newgrange and the Boyne Valley. It was only about an hour north of Dublin so not a bad day trip at all. Newgrange is a very old Irish passage grave that was built before Stonehenge. This old passage grave was built into a hillside in the Boyne valley in such a way that the passage is lit up only on the winter solstice. The three days prior and after the solstice light may also come into the passage but only when the weather is clear. The whole site seems hidden in a hill but when you walk inside of it you are actually walking up an incline into a chamber that was built around 3200 BC. The ceiling of the chamber is made of large slabs of rock that were stacked up on top of each other long ago and have never fallen or leaked yet. At the entrance of the passage grave there is a large carved kerbstone that had some swirl-like designs that are believed to symbolize the 5 days the light will illuminate the chamber.Above is a picture of the front of the passage grave called Newgrange.

I can't even describe the feeling of being inside of Newgrange, it was amazing. We all walked into the passage grave (it is light up with lights for you to see where you are going) which was not an easy walk. There are many places that even I (who is rather short) had to duck or crouch down to make it to the center where there are 3 recesses. Once we got into here there was room to stand comfortably and look around. At this point the guide demonstrated using lights how the passage way works on the winter solstice. Needless to say the tomb without modern lights (which is how it would have been 360 days of the year) is pitch black darkness. I couldn't see my hand right in front of my face!! As the sun comes up on the solstice though a warm orange glow permeates the darkness for about 15 minutes and then the passage is back into darkness. Overall just an amazing experience.


It is hard to believe that a place I was standing in was created way back in the 3000s BC, it just defies thinking. What is also astounding is that these prehistoric people were able to create this place probably over many generations to be so precise with the solstice that it is still working in the same way today!


After we left Newgrange we went to an old 5th century monastery called Monasterboice. On the grounds of the medieval monastery there are two amazing high crosses and the ruins of a round tower. The high crosses have sculpted biblical scenes in them that are still very much visible and amazingly detailed. The round tower was used as a defensive look out and hide-away from viking attackers. One of the ways they were effectively defensive is that the door to get into it was about 5 meters off the ground and one needed a ladder to make it inside. Then to get to all of the other levels within one had to climb more ladders. Most of the tower is still in tact today except for the top of it, but it is still an amazing thing to see.


Below is a picture of the round tower.
We then moved towards the town of Drogheda which is a rather important town for many reasons but we really only had time to stop here for food and to look in the Catholic St. Peter's church. One of the coolest things about St. Peter's church in Drogheda is that there are actually two of them, one is Catholic and the other Protestant. the catholic one is the only one left indecent condition in the town but it shows the religious division in Ireland that you always hear about but don't necessarily see. In my religion class we talked about how the dual names for the rival churches actually ended up hurting both churches because the people were always confused and never really knew what was going on.

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Dublin Adventures

There are many things that I have probably skipped so far in this blog since I keep getting distracted by other things here, like homework and site-seeing. Therefore for my own purposes I am just going to start from the day I moved into my UCD (University-College Dublin) room on June 30.

June 30, 2010:
Overall there wasn't a lot going on in the morning, Jenny and I took our time getting breakfast at the hotel and then we took a cab to explore our new home for the month. The flat at UCD is very nice there are only 4 of us living in a 6 person flat and it has a kitchen and living roomish area. I was so happy to see a kitchen so I can cook some meals and save some money. We did go do some laundry which is not glamorous but it needed to be done. Once all of the other students moved into their flats we all met at the bus station on campus and headed into town for a meet and greet including dinner. Though at this point I had been in the city for a week and didn't need the tour it was fun to do some small exploring with people that were new to the city! After a lovely dinner at Gallaghan's Boxty House in the Temple Bar district some people went home and others stayed out.

July 1, 2010:
This was my first day of classes here in Dublin and Father Jack wasn't able to come until the 6th so I only had my sociology class. Though the class is in its early stages I am learning a lot about the Celtic Tiger and its overall effect on the Irish culture. For those of you that have no idea what I am talking about, the Celtic Tiger was a ten year span in which the Irish economy was booming leaving behind many questions as to whether this boom was a good or bad thing. My soc class is about figuring that out by looking at the social change brought about in the past 50 years of Irish culture...stay tuned for more information as I learn about it!

After classes the whole group met downtown for the Hop-on-off bus tour, which is kinda cheesy but very interesting. We rode the bus through all the way to start and our driver gave us a lot of information that was interesting. Jenny and I then took another of these buses to the National Gallery of Ireland and the driver we had on this tour was fantastic...we were both amazed at the differences between the two and the information they gave to us. Since we were going along the same path we could have heard the same information but each had different things to say.

That was cool!! At the National Gallery there was so much artwork by Irish artists that I have never previously heard of. I loved seeing everything through the eyes of Irish artists instead of through the eyes of the classical Roman or Italian artists that I saw while in Italy. From the National Gallery Jenny and I went to the garden area that is right there that has the statue of Oscar Wilde in it. He is just chilling on a large boulder looking toward the house he used to live in, it was the most bizarre sculpture of a person I have seen since he was so very much relaxed and in color. Later we took the bus tour thing towards our favorite pub in Dublin so far called the Pale. This bus driver was my favorite of all of them because of his sense of humor about everything, the drive was so funny!

July 2, 2010:
Another day of just soc class but once again I am feeling like I have learned a lot about the Celtic Tiger and its lasting effects on the culture. We also learned about the differences between the country in Ireland and the big city of Dublin. Many Irish actually feel like Dublin is not an Irish city because its too international and not Irish enough!! I have to agree with that from my own experiences but I will get into that later. Since this was friday Jenny and I had planned a trip to Galway for the weekend and needed to get to the train station.

Once we got to the train station and waited for ours out to Galway we had a chance to people watch. This is actually one of my favorite things to do in a foreign country because it becomes really easy to pick out the tourists from the locals. I almost felt like I was back in Chicago at the train station but it was a but too clean to be an American train station! Another big difference I can tell just from watching the people is that the Irish in general move at a slower pace they are not always rushing to get things done or to be in a certain place at a specific time. In Dublin of course there is more of the speed and needing to be somewhere, but as you head out into the country there is a lot less of it. The train itself to Galway was pretty uneventful other than Jenny and I trying to read a ginormous paper! We got into Galway kinda late and it was cold and rainy so we just went straight to our hostel and crashed.

July 3, 2010:
My first full day in Galway and we took a bus tour around the area to make sure we saw everything that was important in the area. There is no way we would have been able to see everything we did if we had tried on our own. The bus picked us up right at our hostel and we started out going to the Burren (the place of rocks) which has a ton of limestone mounds or hills that have developed over many many years. The coast is along this area too which is really breathtaking to see in comparison with the rocks. The next big thing we saw was the Cliffs of Moher which believe me are AMAZING!! I thought the view from Mt. Vesuvius was cool this was 10x that! We spent a good 2 hours or so at the cliffs since there was so much to see and the scenery is something you just can't rush.

On the way to the cliffs we passed by the leprechaun head which is just a place in a rock wall that sort of looks like a face. I didn't get a good picture so I am not all that certain I can truthfully pass that off as being amazing. After the cliffs we went to Kilfenora which has an interesting little church things with lots of high crosses in the cemetery. We then saw this old castle which was called the Leamanagh Castle and had a story about a woman that married many times in order to keep control over her castle from others. The coolest thing aside from the cliffs was in the Poulnabrone Dolmen which is a cemetery thing from way long ago and they have a tomb that is a bunch of stones holding up a large capstone. It was so cool to see!! The last main thing that we saw on our journey was the Ballyalban Earthen Ring Fort, it was spectacular to see how the inner and outer rings of earth are able to stay up and not sink. The fort is said to be a home of fairies but I don't think I actually saw any, I was looking though!!


July 4, 2010:
One of the reasons for Jenny and I to go to Galway was for her to see the castle of her Irish ancestors. So on sunday we figured out how to get out to the castle (we had help with the transportation advice from saturday's bus driver). We took a bus that was going toward the castle and the driver let us off at the road that led to it. We then had to walk about 2km until we reached the castle but it was totally worth it. The castle is in really good shape and it was really cool to see the way it would have protected itself and just how little room the people needed to live 'comfortably'. After we spent about an hour or two at the castle we began the walk back to the road so we could either walk to the closest town or hail the bus going back to Galway. There was a golf club along the road and we ate lunch there. I was really surprised at how nice they were at the club because even though they had some sort of function they were preparing for they were more than happy to serve us lunch. After lunch we finished the walk to the roadside and waited for the bus going back to Galway. This is probably the strangest thing in my mind that I have come across, the bus just stops to pick you up on the side of the road if you hail it and it doesn't leave its main path. That would never happen in the United States, you can't just hail the city bus anywhere you please along its route, it would just blow you off, but here you can! After this adventure we had to head back to Dublin since classes would start up again on monday..it was a rather odd fourth of July since there was no fireworks, or hot dogs, or anything 'American'.

July 5, 2010:
Another day of just soc, but I once that was over I had to make sure my religion papers were completed so I stayed mostly in my room to do homework and catch up on my life, since the weekend was so crazy.

July 6, 2010:
Finally Father Jack is here so I had my first religion class here and LOVED it!! We are talking about the history of Christianity here in Ireland and for me its so interesting. I have been reading on this type of information for a few years so much of the current stuff we are learning I already know, but aside from that everything is so interesting. Another plus to this class is there are only 3 other people in my class so we all get to participate in class and there is a lot of learning..I like small classes!!

As a group we all went to the National Museum today and the most interesting thing I saw there were the bog bodies. There are quite a few bodies and other things that have been found in the bogs that the peat they were buried in actually preserved their bodies pretty much intact except for leathering their skin. It was so interesting to see the bodies of these ancient people that were sacrificed to the pagan gods. On one of them you could still see his finger prints! I feel like seeing those people really makes it hit home that they were not all that different from you and me, because when you are only looking at bones there is little that is completely recognizable and being like me, but these men looked so real! It was unbelievable.


Just to add some of my random thoughts and questions that I have come up with:
1. I agree with the many Irishmen that say Dublin is not a true Irish city, why? Well for many reasons. One, its very international and tourist based, I feel like I run into more non-Irish that I do Irish. Two, the country is more laid back and open to talking for a long time not worrying about time and Dublin is much more fast paced. Three, the country is really the Ireland many of us picture when we think of the scenery; green fields, sheep, cows, farmers, and less houses.

2. I have come across this question after reading the Irish Times for my soc class...why are the Irish papers so large? The paper when opened to read the inside of it is at least like 3 feet wide! It is impossible to read on a train unless you want to be really rude to the person sitting next to you. So what is the need of such a large paper?? I don't have an answer to this but maybe someone else does.

3. It has taken me about a week and a half to find ONE store that sells plain potato chips (or crisps as the Irish call them). Apparently the normal crisp flavors here are salt and vinegar, or cheese. Yuck!! I just don't understand that when a country loves the potato as much as Ireland does why don't they sell more plain potato crisps??